东华大学学报(社会科学版)

褙子是宋代女性的典型服饰之一，其设计元素受到社会经济及文化的影响，同时还影响传统服饰的创新研究。该研究以文化因子层次模型为基础，运用层次分析法(AHP)构建宋代褙子设计特征评价体系，通过文献研究和图像分析梳理宋代褙子的形制、纹样、色彩、材料等设计元素，提取关键文化因子，构建文化因子层次模型，探讨其在现代服饰设计中的应用路径，使现代服饰在尊重传统美学的基础上满足现代审美需求，以推动传统文化设计因素的创造性转化与创新性发展。

The Bei zi is a quintessential garment of Song Dynasty women's attire, characterized by its straight collar and side slits. Its design elements were influenced by the socio-economic and cultural milieu of the time and continue to inspire innovations in traditional clothing research. This study employs a cultural factor hierarchy model and utilizes the Analytic Hierarchy Process(AHP) to establish an evaluation system for the design characteristics of the Song Dynasty Bei zi. Through literature review and image analysis, examining design elements such as form, patterns, colors, and materials, key cultural factors are identified. A cultural factor hierarchy model is constructed to explore pathways for integrating these elements into modern fashion design. By respecting traditional aesthetics while catering to contemporary tastes, this approach facilitates the creative transformation and innovative development of traditional cultural design elements.