东华大学学报(社会科学版)

通过对江苏常州胡濙夫妻合葬墓出土的明代四合如意暗花马面裙开展科技检测，并结合图像与文献资料进行综合分析，揭示了明代马面裙在结构演变过渡阶段的结构特征，为马面裙的演变提供了实物依据。采用三维虚拟技术与实物复原相结合的方法，实现了对马面裙结构的双重复原。进一步分析其布幅与褶裥的结构特征，探讨了在固定布幅条件下，如何通过褶量调控与A/H型打褶方式实现“以褶适体”的传统造物智慧。

Through scientific examination and comprehensive analysis integrating visual and textual studies of the Ming dynasty Mamianqun with Sihe Ruyi latent motif unearthed from the Hu Ying joint tomb in Changzhou,Jiangsu,this research elucidates the structural characteristics of Mamianqun during its transitional developmental phase,providing material evidence for the evolution of this garment. By combining three-dimensional virtual reconstruction with physical reproduction,a dual restoration of the skirt's structural configuration has been achieved. Further analysis of its fabric width and pleat distribution explores how,within the constraints of fixed fabric panels,the regulation of pleat volume and the application of A/H-type folding techniques demonstrate the traditional tailoring wisdom of "adapting pleats to the body" for optimal fit.