东华大学学报(社会科学版)

本文聚焦明清鼎革之际官员朝服主色由明代“尚赤”向清代“尚青”的根本转变，探讨服色作为政治权力视觉载体的象征意义及其背后的制度重构逻辑。研究指出，明代以赤色为朝服标准色，既是承续周汉唐宋衣冠礼制、重建汉家正统的文化举措，亦蕴含国姓认同与火德信仰;清代则通过“参汉酌金”的策略，逐步脱离明制赤色体系，历经后金至乾隆朝的长期调适，最终在《大清会典》与《皇朝礼器图式》中将蓝与石青确立为官员朝服色彩。文章依托图像、文献与实物三重证据，系统梳理服色变迁的过程与节点，深入剖析其背后的政治诉求、民族认同、技术条件与社会适应等多重动因，揭示清代如何通过服色更迭解构前明礼制、构建新的统治秩序。

This paper focuses on the fundamental change of the main color of official court uniforms during the Ming and Qing dynasties from " Shangchi" in the Ming Dynasty to "Shangqing" in the Qing dynasty,and discusses the symbolic significance of clothing as a visual carrier of political power and the logic of institutional reconstruction behind it. The study pointed out that the Ming dynasty used red as the standard color of court clothing,which was not only a cultural measure to inherit the Zhou,Han,Tang and Song dynasty ceremonial systems and rebuild the orthodoxy of the Han dynasty,but also contained the identity of the national surname and the belief in fire virtue; The Qing dynasty gradually broke away from the Ming red system through the strategy of "referring to the Han ethnicity and considering Manchu",and after a long period of adjustment from the Later Jin dynasty to the Qianlong dynasty,it finally established blue and stone blue as the color customization of official court uniforms in the Great Qing Huidian and the Imperial Dynasty Ritual Vessel Schema. Relying on the triple evidence of images,documents and objects,this paper systematically sorts out the process and nodes of clothing color change,deeply analyzes the multiple motivations behind it,such as political demands,national identity,technical conditions and social adaptation,and reveals how the Qing dynasty deconstructed the pre-Ming ritual system and built a new ruling order through the change of clothing color.