东华大学学报(社会科学版)

褶裥裙是宋代女性服饰中的经典款式，以其独特的褶裥设计而闻名。福建黄昇墓出土的丝织品，是南宋时期福建乃至全国丝绸文化的重要实证，具有极高的学术与艺术价值。在该墓出土的三百多件随葬服饰及丝织品中，仅有两条褶裥裙，尤显珍贵。其中福建博物院藏的“双凤穿牡丹”褶裥裙，展现了南宋女装的精湛技艺及宋代人对美学的极致追求。本文以南宋黄昇墓“双凤穿牡丹”褶裥裙为个案，从服饰形制的礼制映射、纹样母题以及工艺参数三重视角入手，系统梳理南宋裙装的美学与技术框架，并运用物质文化研究方法，探讨福建南宋纺织手工业的技术谱系与文化传播范式。

Pleated skirts were a classic form of women's dress in the Song dynasty,noted for their distinctive pleating. The silk textiles excavated from the Tomb of Huang Sheng in Fujian constitute important material evidence for Southern Song silk culture in Fujian and beyond,with high scholarly and artistic value. Among over 300 burial garments and silk pieces from the tomb,only two are pleated skirts,underscoring their rarity. The “double phoenix with peony ” pattern pleated skirt in the collection of the Fujian Museum exemplifies the refined techniques of Southern Song women's attire and the era's aesthetic ideals. Using the “Double Phoenix with Peony” skirt from the Tomb of Huang Sheng as a case study,this article examines three dimensions—ritual mapping in dress morphology,the motif's iconographic lineage and craft parameters to systematically outline the aesthetic and technical framework of Southern Song skirts. Drawing on material-culture methods,it further discusses the technological genealogy of Fujian's Southern Song textile industry and its patterns of cultural transmission.